If you think France is all about Paris, baguettes, and croissants, it’s time to venture east. The Jura Mountains stretch along the Rhône, across Ain, Jura, and Doubs, offering landscapes that make you stop mid-sentence. Trust us: this place has it all. Mountains, wildlife, biodynamic wine, lush forests… and yes, the car was loaded with cheese and wine on our way back.
Last year we already got a taste of Jura. This year’s journey started off the same way like last year. Long before we reached the mountains, we packed up the NIO and hit the road. With more than enough space for luggage, cameras, and the whole wine collection we wanted to bring home. But the best thing was: the option to turn it into a mini-bedroom. It became our rolling home for the trip. Along the way, we made stops at free camp spots including one magical night in the middle of a vineyard. All it took was parking the car, rolling out our self-inflating mattress and sleeping bags, and drifting off under a blanket of stars. It was the perfect way to ease into the slower, richer pace of Jura life before the adventure had even properly begun.
The most interesting walks of your life
We kicked things off not with a glass of wine (yet), but with a walk at Au Rythme du Troupeau. And it wasn’t just a regular walk. We joined a flock of sheep and their furry four-legged bodyguards. Here, the dogs train each other to become shepherds. We were so impressed how the farmer handled things (and in love with the driver-dog), we actually considered working there.
Then came cani-hiking: imagine walking around with a husky harnessed to your waist. You’re pulled along like a human sled in summer, weaving through forests, over winding paths, and past sparkling streams. After this, regular walking will feel… just boring. So that’s when it was time to open that first bottle of wine.
💡 Local fact: In the Jura Mountains, herding dogs are still bred for instinct over appearance. Pups learn directly from older dogs, copying their moves until they’re ready to guard and guide the flock themselves.
Hotel Tip: l’Auberge de Ruffieu
Tucked into a tiny village, l’Auberge de Ruffieu is a place where time slows down. The welcome is warm, the rooms cozy, and dinner is classic French home cooking at its finest. Naturally, the morning begins with fresh baguette, buttery croissants, strawberry jam, and strong coffee.
Adress: 260 Grande Rue, 01260 Haut Valromey, Frankrijk
From mountain panoramas to marshland magic
Day two started with the Grand Colombier, a hike that offers jaw-dropping views of the Bugey region. We didn’t have time to complete the full trail (regret!), but it’s the perfect excuse to come back.
Lunch was at Les Epicurieux, a roadside fine-dining gem where flavors travel the globe. The dessert was really the cherry on this lunch. It looked like pâté but tasted like apple pie heaven.
We wouldn’t be surprised if we would already weigh 2 kilos extra, so it was time to get into action again. In the afternoon, guide Alex led us into the Lavours Marsh Nature Reserve. Following wooden boardwalks through reed beds and wetlands, we learned about frogs, beavers, and the quiet power of marsh ecosystems. There’s something grounding about walking above water, surrounded by nothing but nature’s soundtrack.
💡 Nature note: The Lavours marsh was almost drained in the 19th century for farmland. Local conservationists fought to restore it, and today it’s one of the largest protected wetlands in France.
A dreamy hidden gem
At Caveau Bugiste, we enjoyed a wine tour with the added bonus of a cheerful dog clearly smitten with the local vintages. After a tasting, we had to bring home some of the bottles. We recommend a visit and trying the sparkling wines here.
From there, we checked into Le Clos Bo’M, a B&B with all the right ingredients: a dreamy hidden gem, a swimming pool, and a host who has truly mastered the art of hospitality (and is a great chef as well).
Adress: 138 Rue du Four, 01300 Marignieu, Frankrijk
💡 Wine fact: Bugey is one of France’s smallest AOCs, but its mix of alpine climate and limestone soil gives wines here a crisp minerality you won’t find anywhere else.
Running through the vineyards
Day three began with a hike-slash-trailrun around Lac de Barterand. Think forest paths, vineyard rows, and lake views all in one loop. We loved it, even though it involved a lot of sweat since we were very lucky with the weather.
Luckily we had another wine-tasting appointment. At Caveau Quinard, a family-run winery blending tradition with innovation, we were greeted in Dutch, what a nice surprise! And on top of that, the inspection of the wines came by just when we visited. Now we know for sure their wines are bio.
That evening, we stayed at Racine Perchée, an eco-zen retreat in the greenery, complete with frog chorus at night and at the breakfast on the terrace. The hosts were lovely, we felt right at home. Such a nice atmosphere. And they surprised us with some home-cooking that was super tasty. Until now, we’re blown away by the local French dinner. A kitchen that we, before this trip, wouldn’t include in our top 5.
Adress: 457 Montaplan, 01300 Massignieu-de-Rives, Frankrijk
💡 Fun tidbit: Many Bugey vineyards are planted on slopes once used for silk farming mulberry trees, a reminder of the region’s lesser-known textile past.
Cycling, wine, and a mayor with great taste
On day four, we swapped hiking shoes for bikes, riding from Massignieu-de-Rives to Brégnier-Cordon. Quiet roads, burbling streams, birdsongs and, of course, a wine stop halfway. At Caveau Martin-Barbaz, we were welcomed by none other than the mayor himself, a man equally passionate about biodynamic wine and stylish label design. This was hands-down our favorite tasting of the trip.
We spent the night in a Finland’Ain kota, charming wooden chalets with panoramic views. We didn’t want to leave this relaxing place, but it was already time to have dinner. So we headed to Bistrot de la Cascade, where every Wednesday turns into a full-blown barbecue party. Going back for seconds (or thirds) is not only allowed, it’s encouraged.
Adress: 355 Rue Charles Machet, 01300 Izieu, Frankrijk
💡 Wine tip: Biodynamic winemaking can follow the lunar calendar, with planting, pruning, and harvesting timed to the moon’s phases. Some locals swear it even affects the taste.
Storybook ending in Colmar
Our final day took us to Colmar, a town so picture-perfect it could have been storyboarded by Disney. Pastel houses, flower boxes overflowing, and canals winding between cobblestoned streets. We are definitely not disappointed with this stop before heading home. We have a couple really good foodie-tips for you:
Lunch at L’Arpège Bio turned out to be the crown jewel of our Colmar visit. This spot is a true hidden gem, you have to wander through a small gate to find it, but once you step into the courtyard, it feels like a secret garden straight from a fairytale. The menu changes with the seasons, and the kitchen works almost entirely with local, organic produce sourced from small-scale farmers. As proud members of the Slow Food alliance, the owners are committed to preserving biodiversity of flavor, and you can taste it in every bite. We tried both the day’s set menu and a few dishes from the regular card, and every plate was as beautiful to look at as it was to eat. It’s intimate, unhurried, and the kind of place where time seems to stop, and you wish it would.
A quick stop at L’Un Ses Sens, a cozy natural wine bar that doubles as a wine shop. The selection was so good that we ended up buying a few bottles to take home. The staff knew their stuff, every recommendation was spot-on and the small plates coming out of the kitchen looked dangerously tempting. We’ll be back here on our next trip, this time without another reservation looming.
Dinner at Wistub Brenner wrapped things up perfectly. Surrounded by locals, we indulged in traditional dishes while people-watching our way through the evening. The kind of meal that makes you linger just a little longer before saying goodbye.
💡 Did you know? Colmar is often called “Little Venice” thanks to its canals — but it’s also one of the driest towns in France, thanks to a peculiar rain-shadow effect from the nearby Vosges mountains.
Whether you come for the wine, the wildlife, or the sheer variety of landscapes, the Jura Mountains and Bugey region prove that France’s greatest treasures are often found far from the obvious places. Just be warned, one trip won’t be enough.
